Despite it being located just up the street from my home, it took me a while to get to Hacmans Amatte. There were a few reasons. 

I’d watched (and listened and listened and listened) to them building the place for about four years. I thought at first it was a new residential condo. But then the sign went up. Amatte Wellnest Community it said. My guess was an old folks home, people my own age as neighbors. Perhaps I could organize a cribbage tournament.

But then they built this stairway. Very, very impressive. A wonderful, architectural focus. But 70-year-olds are never going to climb that everest of a staircase I thought. What the hell was this place?

Then came opening night. Party central. Beautiful people. Politicians. Disco music, cheering, laughing, louder disco music, strobe lights, fireworks, burns from their cinders in my sunbrella cushions. I guess those holes in my cushions were the only reason it took me a year to get to Hacmans Amatte.

But my granddaughter Frances was in town. It had been six years since I’d been able to lure her from the pleasures of silver sands to the joys of craggly cobblestones. Hacmans Amatte has that seaside resort look. Bottomless mimosas were on the Sunday brunch menu. Don Day’s Wife was willing to walk. And maybe Frances’ partner Eric would pick up the $640 a head bill for the outing.

I wasn’t sure what kind of food to expect at Hacmans. There’s no menu to be found on the internet. They’ve listed themselves on Google as featuring “Mediterranean cuisine”. There’s a sign that reads Cocina A La Leña whomever Leña is. And who or what is a Hacman? A video game?

We climbed the staircase. Counted the 71 steps. Hummed a little Led Zeppelin as we did it. Paused for a look at the pool below and the rest of the architecture. Passed three of the four different bars. Not sure why there’s four. There wasn’t a single sipper at any of them.

Arrived at the dining area, nicely positioned in the northwest corner with one of the best sunset views in town. In the middle was a giant-sized platform laden with mostly sweet goodies.

The server brought the menu, detailed how brunch worked at Hacmans, confirmed that, yes, the mimosas were bottomless and went off to bring our first (of three) rounds.

Brunch is divided into three sections. The first section goes under the title De La Omakase and detailed what was on top of the big, wooden-sided, self-serve buffet table. The oysters, charcuterie and cheeses were, unfortunately, nowhere to be found. The salad, perfectly ripe fruit and pastries were found and fine.

The second section is called Especiales A La Carte and offers you a choice of one of eight different mostly Mexican dishes. Mostly vegetarian Frances chose the chilaquiles; Eric had his first ever barbacoa tacos with a side of consomé; Don Day’s Wife and I chose the pescado zarandeado.

This citrusy chile zarandeado rub is hard to find in San Miguel. We liked that we got a whole head-and-all huachinango (red snapper) rather than a fillet and appreciated the fries made from fresh, peel-on russets.

The third and last section of the brunch menu is called Del Comal and offers quesadillas, huaraches and sopes stuffed with an imaginative choice of things like oxtail, sweetbreads, cauliflower, mushrooms and huitlacoche. We couldn’t quite decide what and when to order from the grill and I headed back up to the buffet for some chocolate balls for our finale.

So, would I go back to Hacmans Amatte for Sunday brunch? Absolutely. The look is lovely. The service is superb. And if you get your moneyworth’s from the bottomless mimosas, $640 for brunch (which Eric did pick up for the four of us) is a deal. Next time, I might even get to meet Hacman and Leña.

Amatte Wellnest Community is located at Salida Real a Querétera #168 in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The restaurant is open for Sunday brunch from 9:00 am to 2:00 pm.