There’s a guy in town called Tony. I don’t know Tony very well. But I know Tony’s from Buffalo. Which gives us something very much in common. Because I’m from a suburb of Buffalo called Canada.
As a once-teenaged Canadian, I lived in a land where people were not considered responsible enough to consume barley and hops until their 21st birthday, where the sidewalks were rolled up promptly at 11:00 pm for fear that we would not rise early enough to be able to confess our sins the following morning, where music in a place that served barley and hops was forbidden for fear it may result in dancing and, subsequently, sexual activities.
So, on Saturday night, I (and many others) would shuffle off to…well you know where, that place that Tony is from.
Unbeknownst to many (but I’m sure not Tony), Buffalo was the home of the seven wonders of the modern world. In order of importance: Beer. American women. Beer. American rock and roll. Beer. Chicken wings. And beer.
When I run into Tony, sooner or later we talk about Buffalo’s glory days, the days of Bills and Braves and Bisons, the days of Saranac and Genesee and Utica Club, the days of beef on weck and fried bologna and buffalo wings.
I asked Don Day’s Wife today if she knew Tony’s last name, his phone number, his email address. I had some important news for Tony. She didn’t. So, hopefully, he’ll read this.
Up until about four years, five months and eleven days ago, we had a place in San Miguel de Allende called ChupAlitas and, at ChupAlitas, Joe and Debra Ingram served wings that rivalled those served in Buffalo’s Anchor Bar. Then one day, about four years, five months and twelve days ago, the Ingrams flew the coop. And I (and perhaps Tony) were without a chicken wing dealer.
Then, last week, I was at my local Carniceria (the best butcher in San Miguel de Allende I will push my chest out and say) and there in the display case were some very welcoming, very red cello packs of “Alitas Adobados”. Ah, what the hell, I thought, let’s see if a Mexicano knows how to cut and spice a wing.
These wings were bigger. Like in the days when chickens were more like chickens than Cornish hens. They’d be a little harder to handle. But some things that are bigger and harder to handle, like Cadillacs and Kardashians, aren’t necessarily bad things.
Now, Buffalonians like Tony will tell you that Buffalo-style wings must be deep-fried and I love my wings deep-fried. But not in my house. You see, Don Day’s Wife is the chief cook and I am the bottlewasher. Which means it is my responsibility to clean the deep fryer. Which means (with Don Day’s Wife’s blessing) that we bake our wings.
“I’m going to pour off most of the sauce”, said Don Day’s Wife, “then give them about 20 minutes at about 450 (we still speak in Fahrenheit when it comes to oven temperatures), flip ’em, give them fifteen minutes more and check if they’re done”.
OK, so before I tell you (and Tony) how good they were, I have to tell you these were not your typical Buffalo wings. These did not use Frank’s Red Hot Sauce like Dom Bellissimo reputedly did at the Anchor Bar. These wings used a much more Mexican sauce that my butcher Alberto told me was flavored mostly by guajillos and guajillos are a chile that almost every Buffalo boy (including those from the suburb of Canada) would’ve never seen hide nor seeds of.
So no, despite the fact that we devoured them with the traditional celery sticks, carrots and a Rosenborg blue cheese sauce, these wings would never be mistaken for Buffalo wings. But these were a wing that could perhaps stand alone and challenge Buffalo for the heavyweight championship of wings.
So, if you know Buffalo Tony (he’s the guy with a tennis racket often wrapped over his shoulder and a bit of a wobble when he walks), tell him I’m sorry I didn’t save any for him, sorry that the Bills didn’t go all the way, but I can tell him where to get his own wings.
Our alitas adobadas came from Carniceria La Nueva Aurora at Durazno Norte #24 in Fraccionamiento La Luz, San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. They’re priced at what I think is a very affordable $108 a kilo. The carniceria delivers but perhaps not just one packet of wings.
Love the references to the illusive Tony. When you find him take him to lunch and blog with him in it. We all want to meet Tony now…..and have those chicken wings!
His name is Tony Ronci, from Buffalo.
Tony Ronci! I’ll forward your delicious write up to him.
My mouth is watering as I read your post. Buffalo wings are an obsession and I have never even been within 500 miles of buffalo. Good to know you don’t have to fly 3000 miles to get some.
That’s *Frank and Teresa’s* Anchor Bar. Main and North. And shurly you should mention the Genny Cream.
Born in Buffalo but, after nine months, decamped for Fairport, just outside Rochester. And, if you’re talking Genny Cream, you can’t leave out 12 Horse.
Coming from Buffalo you were right on. I’m impressed with your memory of many
years past. I liked your reference of the Anchor Bar on Main Street and beef & weck,
but you left out Ted’s hotdogs. Great you remembered the Bisons, Braves and Bills.
Nice that the MLB Jays played their home games in Bflo last season.
“Talking Proud”
We still enjoyed crossing the Peace Bridge to head to the beaches and to drink some
Canadian ale.
Chuplitas was owned by Joe & Debbie Ingram. They sold it to their #1 waitperson, Noel. I believe it is still open some where in town. Good stuff!!
What timing. I had original ChupAlitas wings here in Puerto Escondido last night and further enjoying beach/poolside cocktails with Ted and Debbie as I write. Ted and Debbie opened the original ChupAlitas in SMA but are in PE now.
Yep. They are the absolute best wings I have ever eaten. I am sure my friend Tony R. Would agree.
.
.
Glenn. I typed Ted instead of Joe
It is not Rob. Please edit.
Ah the memories! One of the few good things about living in Hamilton, was the fact that we could head to the bars in Buffalo at 18 years of age. I remember a bar in Buffalo called ‘The Inferno’ where we enjoyed dancing the night away!!!
ChupAlitas SMA is still serving up their great wings in their new location around the corner from the San Juan del Dios market. Head waiter Noel took over when Joe and Debbie moved. He kept the recipes and sauces exactly the same. Joe and Debbie are thriving, as is their ChupAlitas in Puerto Escondido.
I looked to see if Noel was still surviving when I wrote the post and couldn’t find an address. Send it to me please, Barb. I see another chicken wing post coming.
Hi Glenn- Facebook page and address for the Chupalitas SMA are below.
https://www.facebook.com/chupalitas.sma/ Plaza garibaldi # 62 San Miguel de Allende,
Thanks, Barb. It’s on my go to list for next week.