“I placed the shell on the edge of her lips and after a good deal of laughing, she sucked in the oyster, which she held between her lips. I instantly recovered it by placing my lips on hers.” Casanova. The guy who wrote that. You’ve heard of him. Right?...
It’s taken me a long time to write about El Cincuenta y Ocho. It wasn’t that I hadn’t been there. I was there on the day it opened. And a few days after that. And a week or two later. And a couple of times again recently. So what took me so long to...
Give Walter Lewis credit for the dish being on the menu. That’s him front and left at lunch the week before. Enjoying the pozole at the very charming Mexiquito. Walter was asking me about Hansen’s, the San Miguel restaurant that closed its doors late last...
It was a mystery that absolutely fascinated me. I’d stand on the other side of the street, on the north side of Calle Correo, and I’d watch. On the left was a business called Cumpanio. With a never ending stream of customers snaking their way in and out...
I loved Sundays when I was a kid. Because Sunday was the day the family would go for a Sunday drive and a Sunday drive always involved food. I still remember my father’s black 1949 Oldsmobile 88. I still remember him telling my Uncle Calvin it had a rear end as...
If you want to be thought of as an exceptional restaurant, these days, you’ve got to have it. Because that’s apparently what people want when they finally bag a table at an exceptional restaurant. I’m talking about the tasting menu, the prix fixe...
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