It’s not easy being a musselholic in the middle of a desert. It’s not so much that the restaurants serving mussels come and go. It’s that mussels come and go on their menus. I just tallied up the number of San Miguel restaurants whose mussels I’ve praised in the nine...
When I met Ernesto Narvaez, the executive chef at Zibu Allende, one of the first things he said to me was, “This is not my restaurant. All of that credit goes to Eduardo Palazuelos. It is his concept. It is his menu. It is my job to continue what he created.” Zibu...
You’ll find one in almost every barrio in San Miguel de Allende. I’m talking about a seafood restaurant. A very typical Mexican seafood restaurant. It will probably be named after a shrimp, a crab or, perhaps, a crayfish. It will be overstuffed with marine kitsch....
Do the clam. Do the clam. Grab your barefoot baby by the hand. It’s not often I get to quote Elvis Presley especially from one of his worst movies (it was Clambake). But it’s not often I get to do clams. Not in Mexico anyway. Not until recently anyway. I spend about...
I don’t consider mixing seafood and cheese to be a sin. I’ve even personally suffered the roll the eyes wrath of snotty servers when I’ve asked for parmesan on my pasta alla vongole or on my risotto con camarones. But even I have limits and where those limits get...
Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside. Oh, I do like to be beside the sea. And when I want to be beside the seaside Mario’s the place I want to be. I was in Puerto Vallarta when I first learned the Spanish word huachinango. I couldn’t stop saying it. Almost singing...
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