The most classic Mexican dishes to me are tacos and tamales. The first can be found from the very lowest end to the highest and mightiest end of dining establishments. Tamales, however, are still mostly found in market stalls, rolling carts and roadside stands. I think it’s a bit of a shame. But I understand why.

Let’s first talk about what a tamal (the correct singular spelling) is. The prime ingredient is masa, a dough made from nixtamalized corn (no, I’m not exactly sure what nixtamalized means but I do like using the verb once or twice a year). The masa is then combined with…well…almost anything. I’ve seen meats, fish, cheese, vegetables, fruit, and, of course, chiles and seasonings. It is then stuffed inside either corn husks or banana leaves and steamed.

Tamales history may date back to as far as 5000 BC and Wikipedia will tell you that, “The Aztec and Maya civilizations, as well as the Olmec and Toltec before them, used tamales as easily portable food for hunting trips, traveling large distances, and nourishing their armies. Tamales were also considered sacred, as they were seen as the food of the gods. The Aztec, Maya, Olmecs, and Toltecs considered corn as a central part of their cultural identity, so tamales played a large part in their rituals and festivals.”

So where to find tamales in San Miguel? Most of the carts are out in the colonias but I’m a Centro guy so my choices are mostly about geography.

If I’m at La Comer, it’s at Tamales Moctezuma which is located close to the northeast corner of the parking lot. They’re also one of the only tamale makers I know who’ll deliver (415 185 8416).

On the Ancha, in front of the Oxxo close to Stirling Dickinson, it’s hard to miss Tamales Oaxaqeños. Many tamales carts are gone by 2:00 pm. This one is usually around later.

My most frequent tomal stop though is Mercado Ignacio Ramirez. There are two stalls there located side by side at the far west end. One is called Doña Ali. The other’s La Chapis.

I don’t have a big preference between the two tomal makers. They have very similar choices in fillings. They have exactly the same prices (20 pesos).

I usually go to the stall on the right because most people go to the stall on the right. And though they both have stools, I usually take my tamales home and reheat them in the microwave.

Mercado Ignacio Ramirez is also the go-to place if you want to make your own tamales. In the fruit and veg section of the market you should easily spot one of the stalls adorned with pile after pile of corn husks.

So, how often do I buy tamales? Not very often. And why? Because as much as I like the masa and find it a great alternative to rice or potatoes, most local tamales are mostly masa with very little added other ingredients to make the taste more interesting.

I’m not sure if it is the need to stick to those traditional recipes or the need to keep the price at 20 pesos (or lower); all I know is I want more cactus and cheese in my rajas con queso; I want more chicken and sauce in my mole con pollo. I’d have no problems going to 40 pesos for a tamale but I realize I’m a somewhat privileged expat and most locals couldn’t afford to go there.

So what to do? Well the easiest answer is to order them at a  restaurant where, usually, there’s not so much masa. In San Miguel de Allende, I’ve seen tamales available at Maria Xoconostle, El Correo and El Pegaso. I have also seen tamales on the upscale menus at Moxi, 1826 and Casa Nostra and have had a very imaginative chocolate tamale at Zumo. They may stray a little (or a lot) from those centuries-old recipes but, usually, I like the direction that they’re straying.

I do know where I’m going to have my very next tamal. It’s at the mostly Italian but, for one night only, mostly Chiapas restaurant, Cent’Anni on Calle Canal. Chef Viridiana has a wonderful recipe that I was fortunate to taste a couple of weeks ago.

Author P.W. Ross, better known to me and most San Miguelenses as Pete or Peter Ross is launching his new book, Zapatista, at a party there on March 24. I’m one of the very few who have seen a copy (Don Day’s Wife helped with the editing) and what I like a lot about it is scenes take place on streets like Pila Seca and Hernandez Macias and in bars like Hank’s and Berlin. Yes, a lot of the action in Zapatista happens in San Miguel de Allende.

550 peso tickets will get you a copy of the book, a very simple tamal dinner (with beverages extra) and some good old rock and roll. More information and the tickets are available at https://boletocity.com/tc-events/zapatista/