A great restaurant is a combination of many things. First of course, for almost everyone, is the food. Second in importance for me is value, what I get for the price that I pay. Third comes service, being treated efficiently, gracefully and respectfully. And then there are those other considerations, things like location, ambience, atmosphere.
Last week, I was wowed by that third in importance, the service, at a new San Miguel restaurant.
The women were having a ladies dinner at home (it’s a wonderful way to keep wine prices affordable). So the guys had an opportunity to head out for drinks and an opportunity to talk about them (only things such as how extraordinarily lucky we were to have them as partners, of course).
We were unanimous on the meet-up spot. Berlin. There might not be a better place to pass the hours from five to seven. We were unanimous on the drinks as well. Margaritas. Well-made margaritas.
But where for dinner? We could just stay at Berlin. But it was almost empty. So it was lacking one of its greatest appeals, people-watching.
I told the guys, Richard and Marshall, that there was a new possibility around the corner. The sign for Bulla had been taken down and there was a new one in its place. It was hard to read so I wasn’t sure what its name was.
Now I expected the often heard, “Why do we always have to go to a new place? Why can’t we just go where we know it’s going to be good?” But I didn’t. And we were off.
With a guy in an apron standing outside, it was easy to spot the door and, up close, to read the name. Serrano 82. Serrano, I presumed, in tribute to either the pepper or the ham. 82, obviously, because it was the number on Hernandez Macias.
“The bar?”, I said to the guys, indicating my usual spot to sit when the place was still Bulla and started heading in that direction, when a woman interjected, “We may have places you might like better.”
Hmm! A little pushy I thought but the guys were already following her up the spiral staircase.
A couple of corners and quite a few more stairs and we were witnessing another extraordinary San Miguel rooftop and staring at a San Miguel sunset.
“Wherever you would like to sit”, said the woman.
I picked the best table and said, “There.”
The woman pulled out chairs for Richard and Marshall and then held the chair for me.
“What can I get you?”, she asked.
“Una carta de vinos”, I replied.
Now I’m never sure if I prefer big wine lists or small wine lists. But I do know that, big or small, I get flustered when I spend time yaying or naying the possible choices only to discover that, “I’m sorry, we’re out of that. And that.”
Remember, Don Day, it’s not the server’s fault that they haven’t got what’s on that big list, it’s not the server’s fault, I said to myself as I saw her returning carrying a couple of alternative bottles.
We chose an always reliable Rioja Crianza from Izadi and I watched her open it. Present the label to the person who ordered and place the base firmly on the table. Face the label towards the orderer. Cut and lift the foil neatly and rotate it to remove. Insert the screw until there’s only one curl visible at the top. Lift the cork with the first lever. Then the second. Grasp the cork with your hand and twist until the cork releases. Look at and smell the cork and pass it to the one who ordered. Lift their glass and pour approximately one ounce in the glass and hold it up to the light. Set the glass back down for the customer to taste. When they approve, fill the other glasses with approximately five ounces before filling theirs. Wipe any drips and drools from the neck with a clean serviette and place the bottle where it is in easy reach of the person who ordered.
OK, she hadn’t been to sommelier school but she uncorked the red with more aplomb than most San Miguel servers.
The menu at Serrano 82 is like the wine list. Very big. It’s best described as traditional Italian with a strong American influence with a few more adventurous dishes snuck into the starters.
Now I know Richard and Marshall both have palates as wide as those old Rand McNally maps of the world. And I also know that, even though they think I’m a little…OK, more than a little…aggressive with a menu in my hand, they’re usually OK with my take charge attitude in selecting dishes to share. They also know it’s best that the wives find less than a thousand pesos on the Visa bill when you’ve been out with the guys.
I told Diana (we’d now asked the server her name) that we wanted one order of each of five starters to be served one at a time and placed in the middle of the table for us to share. Talk about a mouthful. It’s a request that’s difficult to communicate in English. It’s extremely difficult in Spanglish.
My first choice was the Serrano ham croquettes. They were one of the best things on Bulla’s menu. Perhaps some of the kitchen staff had survived.
Next choice, the fried artichoke; I can never resist artichoke. Plus the tiger’s milk ceviche, particularly because the menu mentions it’s made with sea bass. And the carpaccio; the boys love their beef.
“Plus I want one more, Diana”, I said to our patient server.
“You want the chorizo, senor”, said Diana, getting a little pushy.
“We want the chorizo”, I replied, especially after seeing the $125 price. I like servers to get a little pushy.
Now my mother was in the restaurant biz and, to get a job as one of her servers, you had to pass two tough tests. First you had to be able to carry four loaded dinner plates through swinging doors. Second you had to be able to serve single-handedly with a fork and spoon.
These days, big trays are the norm so balancing the plates up the arms maneuver is no longer required. But there were lots of opportunities for Diana to show off her finger twisting skills.
It started with the tricky little croquettes and continued with the feathery artichoke dish.
Clean plates were brought. The ceviche was plated…I guess I should say bowled…to allow a little showbiz at the table. I like a little showbiz at the table.
The robalo mixture was first spooned over the colorful sides then tossed into a creamy delight. Without asking, clean serviettes arrived.
Diana’s finger twiddling skills were put to the test again with the chorizo and it was on to our last shared starter, the beef carpaccio.
Diana brought a knife into play to separate the well-marbled slices. It looked good but too much vinegar in the taste made it only four dishes out of five for the kitchen.
Were we full? Yes. Were we going to skip dessert? Of course not.
I said to our server, “Diana bring us your very best postre.”
Now most servers would then run through all of the possibilities, or at least some of them.
Our server just nodded and strode confidently away.
Thank goodness we were sharing. The dessert was massive. Apple crumble made very special with some toasted almonds and vanilla where you can actually taste the vanilla ice cream. If it wasn’t so good, we wouldn’t have gotten through it.
We traditionally pay our restaurant bills with a card and the tip in cash. Most servers like it that way. Almost all restaurants like it that way.
Without drinks, the tab came to 1070 pesos (less than $20 US per person). I’m not sure we could get a better deal for a six course meal anywhere in this town.
But there was still the tip. Now I’m a guy who didn’t give much support to the industry standard being raised from 15% to 18%. But this night went from special to very special because our server was superb. I suggested we give 25%. Richard and Marshall welcomed the suggestion.
There was time for one last look at the western sky and sharing the plaudits for service with manager Ivan Flores.
We talked about returning with the wives to Serrano 82. I wonder how we can find out what Diana’s days and hours are.
Serrano 82 is located at Hernandez Macias 82 in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The restaurant is open seven days a week from 1:00 pm. They close on Sundays at 10:00 pm, Monday through Wednesday at 11:00 pm, Thursday through Saturday at 1:00 am.
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