The restaurant doesn’t look like it belongs in San Miguel de Allende. Especially when it’s only four or five short blocks from the very heart of San Miguel.
It’s more the kind of place you’d expect to see at the side of a dusty highway. Or facing a beach in some faded resort town that the guidebooks forgot years ago.
The look of the restaurant is from the clutter school of interior design. You could call it shabby chic but it would be more accurate to just call it tacky chic. The walls are bamboo sticks. The roof is canvas or plastic. The floor is gravel. Vines have a mind of their own. Christmas lights are in season every day of the year. Enamel plates decorate the walls. And I like it. I really like it. Because at Don Lupe Grill I feel very, very comfortable. And comfort food is what Don Lupe is all about.
The cuisine is TexMex and that upsets some people. Because some people think TexMex is grand larcency, a corruption of Cocina Mexicana. But I think TexMex should be celebrated. Chili con carne. Flour tortillas. Enchiladas smothered in cheese. Burritos exploding with rice and beans. No they’re not Mexican. They’re TexMex. And I like them. And TexMex is a very legitimate cuisine. And I can get all of those dishes at Don Lupe Grill.
But most people seem to go to Don Lupe for another TexMex dish. The one called fajitas. There’s even a sign proclaiming that Don Lupe is the king of fajitas. No one seems quite sure where fajitas originated. Perhaps even on this side of the border, in Northern Mexico. Or perhaps even in this town, in San Miguel de Allende, at the recently re-opened Ole! Ole!
The first time I ever saw fajitas I’m guessing was about 35 years ago. In those days, they were only made with steak. I remember them as the dish that converted my son to the joys of fried bell peppers and, yes, the sizzling iron skillet gets most of the credit.
These days, I seem to see almost as many sizzling skillets filled with chicken at Don Lupe as I do with beef. Plus there’s the parrillada, an assortment of chicken, arrachera, shrimp, and Mexican sausage (“This is not the regular chorizo” Joyce Robledo, the wife of co-owner Javier Robledo, told me, “but a special blend that Javi has made especially for his restaurant”). For non red meat eaters there’s a burrito with shrimp and even a vegetarian with cauliflower, broccoli, chick peas, nopales and carrots. But my choice and Don Day’s Wife’s choice is always the classic steak.
The traditional cut for fajitas is skirt steak. Javier Robledo, also the chef of Don Lupe (the restaurant is named after his father), is not a traditionalist. Javier uses flank steak. And I like his choice.
Of those cuts that don’t require marbling with fat, I’d rank flank right behind filet. Flank does require tenderizing and I like Javi’s marinade as well. A special spice mix that Javier imports in plastic bags from a sister in the U.S. is combined with orange juice and soy. Cumin, chile and paprika are the most notable flavors that enhance the beefiness.
Quantity is another essential ingredient of TexMex and Don Lupe’s fajitas come with rice, beans, salad, guacamole, salsa and flour tortillas, if it’s Don Day’s Wife doing the ordering, or corn tortillas if Don Day gets his way.
Fajitas may have brought the most fame to Don Lupe Grill but burritos are the runner up as my favorite thing to eat there. El Burrito Grande is the biggest selling burrito. It combines ground beef with beans and rice and is topped with lettuce, tomato and sour cream. At $75, it’s up there…or should I say down there…with the town’s very best bargains.
The funky and friendly atmosphere and ambience is reason number one why I like Don Lupe. And credits should also go to Javier Robledo’s partner, Cesar Carreon. Javi’s right-hand man is always greeting everyone with a big smile, so courteous, laughing and working hard to help Javi make the restaurant what it is.
Piled high plates of Tex/Mex comfort at reasonable prices is reason number two why I like Don Lupe.
But there’s a third reason why I relish a trip to the restaurant. On Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday, from 7:00 to 9:00 pm, Don Lupe usually has live music, the kind of live music I usually like.
Don Lupe is the regular home of Yoremem, the closest thing we have to a nightingale in San Miguel de Allende (and a fine guitar picker as well).
My last time at Don Lupe there were a couple of relative newbies to the local music scene, Tony and Bonnie. Anyone who does Lyle Lovett’s “If I Had A Boat” plus some sweet harmonizing on a select list of other country/folk classics is alright with me.
Tony said, “If you have a request, we’ll try to do it. If we don’t know it, we’ll try to find someone who does.”
Which brings us back to Javier Robledo.
Javi told me, “My parents (they’re the handsome couple in the portrait on the wall) wanted me to be a lawyer. I wanted to be an actor. But it was when I began cooking that I found my true love.”
I think, however, that Javi has another secret or not so secret love. For it only takes a teaspoonful of encouragement to get him up to the mike.
“Nice voice”, said my granddaughter Frances, “and I love those disco lights.”
Don Lupe Grill is located at Pila Seca 34B in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. They are open from Noon to 9:00 pm, seven days a week (but don’t be surprised to find them open a little later, especially when there’s music in the air).
Javier Robledo and his amazing wife, Joyce were the very first people I met when I first moved to San Miguel de Allende almost seven years ago. I knew no one in SMA and they took me under their wings and introduced me to great Mexican food & music. I am so proud of the hard work and compassionate heart Javi has, this has led to the success of Don Lupe Grill. He will do anything your heart desires – a fantastic friend, husband, cook and Mexicano! We LOVE Don Lupe Grill and Javier is the BEST of the BEST!!
When in San Miguel, I eat there once a week. And when I take visitors they are always shockingly pleased with the food, the atmosphere, and the graciousness of Javi. Thank you for writing about them.
Ole… Another neighborhood gem, a San Miguel gem. And I am sorry to admit I have never been even though every time I passed by, I was intrigued. Definitely going asap. Thanks Don Day and your loyal posse.
Thanks again Don for your excellent reviews!
We love the place too, what a special spot. The first time we were there the little ones were reciting numbers in english at the back of the restaurant. It was sweet, Miss San Miguel everyday. Cheers.
Wonderful to see this delightful place getting the recognition it so rightfully deserves. YOu failed to mention: the owners brother is a local butcher and supplies the best meat possible to this little place.
seating nee
I have been eating and reviewing this place for about two years…on Tripadvisor…they oly had 3 reviews when I began and are up up and away reviewed now. This write up may put their limited seating at a premium,,,Good for them!!!!!!
I love Joye and Javi for a multitude of reasons. Don Lupe’s is always where I take me children when they are in town. The food is terrific and the music too esp when Javi sings. I cannot thank them enough for all the special events they have done for me and their friendship. Please try this place. You too will be back at least once a week. I wish we could go more often. Betty Bertele/Lewis
Javi also hires and trains kids from poor villages in the campo, who would otherwise have difficulty finding work. AND he provides space in the restaurant for teachers to tutor people who come into town from the ranchos to practice their Emglish.Javi is a gem, and so is Don Lupe Grill! My favorite place in San Miguel!
Love this place and Javier and Cesar are amazing hosts. The only reason we found it is because we were staying across the road on Pila Seca. Food is always fresh and great value as is the tequila. My husband and Javier song duet to ‘My Way’. Always fun. Will be back again next year. So glad you did a review Glenn
What a nice review for such a wonderful restaurant. I have been eating at Don Lupe’s on a regular basis since it opened and have watched it grow and it’s menu become more varied over the years. I truly love the place; the staff, the clients,the entertainment (especially Wednesdays with Almitri Tsange!), the food and the atmosphere. It’s easy on the budget and wonderful on the tongue; I can’t recommend it highly enough.
What a nice review for such a wonderful restaurant. I have been eating at Don Lupe’s on a regular basis since it opened and have watched it grow and it’s menu become more varied over the years. I truly love the place; the staff, the clients,the entertainment (especially Wednesdays with Almitri ), the food and the atmosphere. It’s easy on the budget and wonderful on the tongue; I can’t recommend it highly enough.
Javi and Cesar are the greatest! Don Lupe’s food is fantastic, but even better is the atmosphere and energy! Everyone is always greeted personally as they arrive and made to feel like they’re home with family and friends! That’s an incredible accomplishment!
Thanks so much for the heads up on this one. Can’t wait to try it. And please, please, please – you simply must review the new Ole Ole! SO happy to hear they’re back – and can’t wait to hear from you more about them!
Don Lupe has moved at least three times since this weite-up. All applies except they are currently out past Don Pedro ferreteria on Salida de Celaya, a right turn past the gas station.