La Virundela. Rising from the mesquite ashes.

La Virundela. Rising from the mesquite ashes.

Love is lovelier, the second time around. I always liked La Virundela. I always liked the owners. I always wanted the restaurant to be successful. But I always knew it wouldn’t. Because it was always missing the most important ingredient. As good as the place...
Fairy tales do come true. At Firenze.

Fairy tales do come true. At Firenze.

Once upon a time, there was a handsome man named Antonio. He went for a walk in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico and soon came upon a building. He said this might make a good restaurant. But the space turned out to be too awkward and too small. So Antonio went for a...
Gaby Green is back. In greener pastures.

Gaby Green is back. In greener pastures.

Gaby Green has been cooking in San Miguel de Allende longer than I’ve been eating. She’s had restaurants in at least three locations. La Fonda and La Fonda Rosa are two names I remember. She’s had a catering biz. At least one cooking school. And most...
El Arbol. Because sometimes the best food in life is free.

El Arbol. Because sometimes the best food in life is free.

It’s been a tradition in Mexican restaurants since the first day I walked into one. It was back in 1974. In Toronto. It was called The Peasant’s Larder. It was where the Carlton streetcar bent around and down Parliament Street. In the days when Cabbagetown...
Oso Azul. Perking up the reputation of Mexican coffee.

Oso Azul. Perking up the reputation of Mexican coffee.

A head-scratcher. That’s what I would have called it when I was a kid. Before I’d learned words like conundrum and enigma. I’m talking about coffee and Mexico. Here’s a country that experts believe produces some of the world’s best...
La Alborada. My museum of Mexican memorabilia.

La Alborada. My museum of Mexican memorabilia.

I couldn’t believe it came out of Don Day’s Wife’s mouth. It wasn’t like I hadn’t heard the word before. Just not in such a personal way. Or quite in that context. I thought I knew what the word meant. I thought it had something to do...