Heightening the pleasures of birria. On the roof of Hotel Amatte.

Heightening the pleasures of birria. On the roof of Hotel Amatte.

It’s a spectacular setting. With a view that’s quite different than most San Miguel rooftop restaurants. Plus it’s a less than ten minute taxi ride from prime Centro. Yet I’ve never once seen it busy. I think the prime reason is because the hotel just can’t seem to...
Mortadella. This ain’t no baloney!

Mortadella. This ain’t no baloney!

My wife’s parents called it motor trailer. My parents called it dead secretary (Perry Mason was the most watched show in those days). I didn’t care what they called it. Mortadella was my favorite sandwich meat. I started to really love it long ago and far...
What really is the purpose of a restaurant review? 

What really is the purpose of a restaurant review? 

A few…maybe more than a few…years ago, Cheryl Young, a writer and friend of mine was going to a lunch at a new restaurant called Aperi. As it was a “ladies lunch” and as I wasn’t invited, I asked if she would write about it on my blog; she agreed. A few days ago,...
Bhaji. As good as ever. 13 years later.

Bhaji. As good as ever. 13 years later.

I still fondly remember Bhaji’s first home in San Miguel, a classy and cosy little spot hidden behind heavy velvet curtains on Calle Correo. I loved going there, especially with a group of good friends. Indian cuisine is like that. Better when shared. Best when...
Chef Pablo. Proud. Passionate. Polished.

Chef Pablo. Proud. Passionate. Polished.

Back in December 2021, I said to Don Day’s Wife, “A pizza parlor with no pasta and no delivery. Not a snowball’s chance in hell it’ll survive. I give it one year, absolute max!” The place I was talking about was called Bennu. They recently celebrated their third...