I’m a snowbird, a Canadian who flocks during those nastier of the northern months to San Miguel de Allende. This past November, when I returned, I felt a little ignored, perhaps neglected, even rejected. The phone calls, the emails, the words-of-mouth, the messages were not about me but all about, “The duck has returned”, “Pilar is here again”, “Ooeee! The best barbacoa is back.”

The duck. El Pato. Pilar. We go back a long, long time. They’ve been serving some of the world’s best lamb for about 30 years in San Miguel. I’ve been eating it for about 20 of those years.

Then, last Spring, they were up and gone. Lock, stock and Coca Cola canopies. Moved to Queretaro I was told. Couldn’t afford San Miguel’s ever increasing rents was what people said.

But now they were back and I was back. I was invited to my good friends Andy and Marie-Claude’s for lunch. They’re both very talented cooks…I might even call them chefs…but what were they featuring? Not there own creations but El Pato’s barbacoa. Delivered just before we arrived and as moist and tender and delicious as ever.

I vowed to check out El Pato’s new premises the following week and asked my old friend Richard Smerdon and my new friend Scott Simmons to join me.

We passed the Fabrica de Aurora, crossed the bridge over the canal, made a right at the formerly-known-as Pollo Feliz and kerplunked carefully along the very rough cobblestoned road to El Obraje.

It was Scott’s first time and I warned him it ain’t gonna be pretty. But you don’t go to El Pato for the looks, you go for Jose Luis’ consome, his mixiote and his barbacoa…well that plus his wife Pilar’s charm.

We had all three lamb dishes for lunch. Pilar told us about the importance of using agave in the cooking of the lamb.

El Pato (Jose Luis’ nickname) told us about the sheep he uses. They’re just under a year old. About 30 kilos which, after removing the head and legs and butchering come down to about half that.

The tortillas were, as always, handmade at time of ordering.

The lamb was all as tender and toothsome as ever and, despite those ever increasing San Miguel rents, still one of the town’s best bargains at a grand total of 480 pesos for a three course lunch for three greedy guys.

Scott called the food and the experience “extraordinary” but said there’s no way I’m going to get my wife here. We told him there was little chance we would get our wives there either. But we did all say we were so glad El Pato was back and, with or without wives, we were all going back to El Pato. Soon.

El Pato Barbacoa y Mixiotes is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 8:00 am to 2:00 pm. For home delivery, use Uber Eats. To help find their new location, you may need Google Maps.