Chocolate pudding was the first dessert I ever remember making. I was about 12 years old and there was this exciting new product in my life. It was called instant pudding…not fast, not quick, but instant. It was instant bliss for a 12-year-old mainly because it was so easy to make.

First, you waited until Saturday night when your parents usually went out. Then you took a box out of the cupboard. Then you put some milk on the stove to boil. Then you poured the powder in the box into the milk and gave it a stir and went to watch Hockey Night In Canada on the big new 17-incher.

Then, when you heard and smelt the overflowing milk burning on the electric element, you ran back to the kitchen rapidly repeating that favorite new word that Bad Bradley had taught you. You then waited for it to cool just enough so it didn’t burn the roof of your mouth and ate half of it. The other half was then placed in the icebox to cool, set and be consumed between the second and third periods of the hockey game. Oh and one more thing. As you ate it, you sang the J-E-L-L-O jingle from The Jack Benny Show.

I never eat instant pudding anymore. I haven’t for years. I guess I don’t eat it now for the same reason I did eat it then: Lots and lots of sugar. But, when I’m in Mexico, I still eat chocolate pudding.

Along both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts, diospyros nigra trees grow and, on diospyros nigra trees, grow black sapote fruit. They’re related to the persimmon and look a little like an ugly, green tomato. You don’t see them much outside of Mexico because black sapote suffers from travel sickness. You see, it has to be very ripe before you eat it and, when it’s very ripe, it’s very creamy inside and when it’s very creamy inside, the brittle, crusty peel easily breaks.

Slice a black zapote fruit in half and inside you’ll find, you guessed it, chocolate pudding. Well, OK, not exactly. It looks a lot like chocolate pudding and it tastes a little like chocolate pudding. And, best of all, when I hold a half in one hand and a spoon in the other hand, I’m a 12-year-old kid again watching “Teeder” Kennedy fire a cannonating shot at the Montreal goal.

If you live in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, as I do in the winter, you’ll find black sapote or zapote negro or zapote prieto, as it’s sometimes called, at almost any market where they sell fruit and vegetables; if you only shop at supermarkets, you’ll usually find them in Soriana. If you don’t find them anywhere, well I guess you’ll have to go to the cupboard, take out a box…