I’ve seen crèpes suzette, bananas foster and cherries jubilee. I’ve seen desserts that bubbled, that sparkled, that smoked. But I’d never seen anything quite like this.
We’d already had five courses. But we’d split them. And there were three of us. So there was definitely still room to also share something sweet.
There was one dessert on the menu with salted caramel. I’m a sucker for anything with salted caramel. There was another called chocolate animal. I am a chocolate animal.
We asked the restaurant’s manager, Erik Demian for advice.
“Do you want the best dessert, the very best dessert?”, said Erik. “Do you trust me to decide for you?”
We did.
We were at Eustolia Gastronómico, the chef-driven restaurant that recently replaced 13 Cielos in San Miguel de Allende.
About five minutes later, back came Eric with a two foot wide tray full of…well I wasn’t quite sure what it was full of. I stood up. I spotted a couple of meringue shells, about ten different glass bowls holding an assortment of shapes, sizes, colors. A white cream in another container.
“This is for Merengue Sixtino”, said Erik.
“Hmmmmm,” I said.
Following Erik was Eustolia’s chef Jesus Vasquez carrying what looked like a sheet of parchment paper.
“Hmmmmm,” Don Day’s Wife said.
“Hmmmmm,” My friend Jack said.
We had no idea what was going to happen next.
Chef Jesus carefully spread and smoothed the white sheet in the center of the table. Took a spoon and dipped it into the first of the small bowls.
“Galleta vanilla”, said the chef as he spread four little rivulets of cookie crumbs.
“Yogurt”, he said as five daubs of cream were smeared across the sheet.
Then, working more like a surgeon with forceps than a chef with tongs, figs, blackberries, raspberries, blueberries, and candied pecans were intricately positioned, followed by generous drops and drizzles of a berry compote and then woooooooo! a total surprise splat.
“Get any on ya?”, I asked and was answered “no” and “not a drop”.
And the chef wasn’t done yet.
There were still cocoa nibs, a canister of mascarpone cream to be whooshed, the meringues to be delicately positioned and stuffed with helado de vainilla and a crowning glory of nasturtium blossoms.
Now it was done. Or so I thought until chef Jesus handed Don Day’s Wife a spoon.
“Adelante. Golpealo,” said Jesus.
“Go ahead? Hit it. The meringue?”, asked Don Day’s Wife. A merengue deconstruido?
Jesus’ head slowly nodded up and down. I suspect there was a wide grin under his mask.
So, yes, visually, the dessert was magnificent. “An extravaganza” said Jack. And yes, the flavors lived up to the looks, with about ten different tastes and textures. And yes, we ate every cream and crumb we could easily scrape from that sheet. Next time we might even request a spatula so we can get that very last morsel.
I’m not sure I’d ever seen anything that compared with this culinary showbiz. I asked Jesus Vasquez where the dish originated.
“It is an original of the chef”, he replied.
“An original of which chef”, I asked.
“An original of this chef, an original of mine”, he replied, proudly pointing his thumb at his chest.
I had one last question of Jesus Vasquez.
“The name of the dessert, Merengue Sixtino, is that because there are sixteen ingredients?”
“No, no”, said the chef, “it is a reference to the Capilla Sixtina. The dessert is a tribute to Michelangelo.”
Eustolia Gastronómico is located at Correo #34 in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The restaurant is open from 1:00 pm to 1:00 am on weekends, 1:00 pm to midnight on weekdays.
Wow, we will be giving this restaurant a try. Hopefully, this one will make it. We love the setting!
That dessert was not original with that chef. Grant Achatz at the Alinea restaurant in Chicago has been preparing the signature dessert on a tablecloth for more than a decade. And he’s demonstrated it on practically every food show.
Chef Jesus Vasquez is trying to copy Chef Grant Achatz from Alinea in Chicago.
Chef Vasques should withdraw his statement of dessert preparation ” eat -off- the -table” originated with him. Let’s face it, he is no Chef Grant and will never be.
I have had the opportunity to dine at Alinea on several occasions and have been a guest in his kitchen. Shame on Chef Vasquez
Actually, shame on you for your unkind comment comparing the two chefs. It was rude and necessary.
I totally agree. If you cannot compare chefs in a kind way, do not do it at all. All artists are sincere in their desire to express their respect and curious nature with the natural world in an effort to please the patrons and audience. Tis the Season and reason for love.
Looks amazing! Can not wait to try.
What happened to the wonderful original review that you wrote about the “all A’s” food experience at Eustolia Gastronimico???? I love to re-read your great reviews before I try a new restaurant…..helps me decide what to order.
So many of the dishes and the wines that I wrote about are no longer on their menu, so I had to pull it. Such a shame I thought.
OK but how were the other five courses?
Some of are just not dessert eaters.
Thanks
There was a rave review but I took it off the site when so many things changed at the restaurant. Their emphasis now seems to be on making it a music venue.
Your desert review was absolutely fun to read and watch! How creative and playful and interactive. The laughter delighted both the palette and senses.🎈
Wow! ….nearly a transcendental experience….and that is because it is inspired by the Sistine Cahpell.