If you skip the social aspects, there are two reasons why I go out to a restaurant. To eat and to drink. And, to me, the second is almost as important as the first. For, on most occasions, as the 19th Century French gastronome Brillat-Savarin said, a meal without wine is like a day without sunshine.
So, in San Miguel de Allende, what do I look for in a restaurant wine list? First I look at price. Very hard. For I am far from a wealthy person. And, as Bill “Bojangles” Robinson said, “I drinks a bit”. Often, if it’s a multi-course dinner, one bottle won’t be quite enough for Don Day’s Wife and I.
It wasn’t that long ago in this town that I could easily find a decent bottle of wine in a mid to high-end restaurant for $500. These days, that’s almost impossible. At those restaurants I’m most familiar with, the most economical red is now $650 for a Beaulieu Vineyards California Cab at Trazo. At other upscale San Miguel restaurants, there isn’t a single red for less than four figures.
There’s a saying in the hospitality business: The expenses are served on a plate. The profits are served in a glass. There are not a lot of costs associated with wines…inventory, storage, glass breakage…so, sometimes, alcohol can be responsible for almost 100% of a restaurant’s net.
So why the big hike in prices locally? The Mexican peso certainly has been weak versus the currencies that wine are most often traded in, the US dollar and the Euro. And I believe, these days, there are a lot more wealthy people in this town willing to spend a lot more pesos on wine. But I also believe restaurants are marking up wines much more than they used to.
Fifty years ago, not long after I discovered the fermented fruit, wines were only marked up around 100% over retail. That number slowly crept up until, this century, it wasn’t unusual to see a 200% lift over the price in a shop. These days, though, we’re seeing numbers much higher than that.
At Bovine, one of those restaurants with nothing under four figures, their cheapest red is a Primitivo from Puglia that I can buy retail for $140. They charge $1200. Quite a bit higher than 200% wouldn’t you say? Even that least expensive of all reds at mid to high end restaurants, the one I mentioned earlier at Trazo 1810, the BV Coastal Estates Cabernet Sauvignon, I can buy for $120 and they charge $750.
So you can imagine how excited I was when I recently discovered a San Miguel restaurant with, not only very reasonable mark-ups, but a small but very well-selected list.
What originally caught my eye on the drinks menu was their house red. It’s a Finca Villacreces Pruno, a Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon from Ribera del Duero. Now this just happens to be one of my favorite Spanish wines and one of the very best bargains to ever come out of the country. I’m used to paying $400 at the quite economical Costco for this gem. This relatively-new restaurant, Casa Nostra, charges just $690. An extraordinary value!
There are other great values on the list, a couple of them still under that old-fashioned $500 mark.
Gabbiano is a Chianti that I’ve probably drunk at least a hundred bottles of over the years. A bottle costs me $253 at La Comer, the San Miguel supermarket. It is only $470 at Casa Nostra.
I was looking forward to perhaps those and perhaps other good bottles with mini-mark-ups when we met old friends for dinner at Casa Nostra this week.
Casa Nostra opened in mid-January. It shines like a solitaire in an already gleaming band at night. There are four different levels. The third floor is the most elegant and where the compact dining room is located.
Executive chef/owner Marco Franco Massarotti is almost ever-present in the room, sometimes in the guise of sommelier, sometimes as head waiter, always forthcoming with advice as to what to eat and drink.
“Our philosophy is to offer good wines at fair prices so that many people will try new wines and might join the passion I have for wine”, said the very-engaging Marco. “Our vision is that people who like good wines will come to Casa Nostra as they know we have something for everybody at reasonable prices, even for the very expensive wines we have.”
Even with that “reasonable prices” comment, I felt a little like Ebenezer You Know Who when I told Marco Massarotti our budget restrictions but I thought it best that he know up front and didn’t waste his time trying to sell us any four figure bottles. He gave us a suggestion of two different whites from his Italian homeland to go with the amuse bouche that had now arrived: a Pinot Grigio or an Orvieto. I never have a problem with Pinot Grigio; it’s become the everyman’s white of choice. But an Orvieto; that is a little special. It was a white of my youth and, just hearing the word, was like hearing a love song from the seventies that I hadn’t heard…well…since the seventies.
“And how much?” I asked Marco.
“$460”, said Marco.
“Open it please”, I requested.
Orvieto is a small village almost smack-dab in the middle of Italy. The wine is almost always lip-smacking good; particularly considering the price.
Borgo Cipressi, the Orvieto stocked by Casa Nostra, has the aroma of peaches with a hint of citrus. It’s fresh and crispy on the tongue with chalky nuances from the flintstone soil the vines are grown in. I thought I could recognize almonds on the finish.
We had chosen a selection of tapas for the four of us to share: salmon mousse in puff pastry, Serrano ham croquettes, and calamari stuffed with figs, nuts and a touch of blue cheese. The Orvieto partnered well with all of them.
We placed our mains orders; the guys unable to resist the classic spaghetti bolognese, one of the ladies choosing a risotto with porcini mushrooms, red wine, mascarpone cheese and saffron, the other choosing a veal involtini saltimbocca served with homemade pasta.
Meanwhile, the star of the evening was being slowly poured by the server into one of those over-the-top decanter designs that you shrug your shoulders at but secretly would love to have at home.
Finca Villacreces Pruno Ribera del Duero rose to fame with its 2013 edition when Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, the most influential wine publication in the world, gave it a 93; a score usually reserved for far more expensive wines.
The publication wrote (and I apologize for there being even more winespeak than even I babble): “…a blend of 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon aged 12 months in French oak, is stunning, simply over-delivering in so many different ways. This wine, which offers up copious quantities of blueberry, black raspberry and black currant fruit, licorice, graphite and meaty notes, offers fabulous aromatics, medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, beautiful, pure texture and a long, heady finish with subtle oak.”
The 2013s are long gone but Marco Massarotti was “…able to get a couple of cases of the 2015 at an affordable price and I love sharing my good fortune with Casa Nostra’s customers.”
“I think the 2015 Pruno ranks very close to the 2013, particularly after a few minutes in the decanter.”
Now, personally, I’ve never seen much value in decanting unless the bottle has sediment which the Finca Villacreces Pruno doesn’t. But I do love the ritual, the showbiz, and the look of envy from the diners at other tables that your wine must be better than theirs.
I loved the tulip glass the Pruno was served in as well. What a wonderful homage to a 690 peso wine I thought.
“There are only a few bottles left” said Marco, and, if I can get more, I know next time my cost is going be quite a bit higher so the restaurant’s price will have to be as well.”
While those supplies last, you can also get a taste of Pruno by the glass. It’s a nice thing to have in your hand on Casa Nostra’s fourth floor terrace.
Marco wears the Italian flag on one sleeve, the Swiss flag on the other. We knew chocolate had to be on the postres list. It was the all-hands-up choice for dessert. As with the starters, we chose to share, selecting a white chocolate mousse, a dark chocolate mousse and, perhaps in a desperate attempt at appearing the tiniest bit healthy, a basil semifreddo.
By the time it came to choosing the third wine, we decided to put ourselves totally in Marco’s hands; this time my friend Ben and I using our Scottish heritage as the reason for our proviso.
“Under $500?”, I sheepishly asked.
“Well under $500”, Marco replied. “Can I make it a surprise?”
He told us it was a Cabernet Franc with some Ruby Cabernet; good news to Ben and I, who had holidayed together in Chinon, the original French home of the Cab Franc grape. But that was about all Marco would tell me.
A glass was poured and I held it up to the light and swirled, just like those professional sommeliers do at those tastings I don’t get invited to enough…or is it ever.
“How old do you think it is?”, asked Marco.
“Five maybe six years”, said I, checking out the color I called reddish-brown and those sommeliers might call chestnut or tan or mahogany.
“Seven with eighteen months in the barrel”, said Marco as he turned the bottle and revealed the label.
I knew the wine well. I had seen it often but I had never bought it, never tasted it. It would be sitting there on the shelf when I was picking up the local burrata at Remo’s, the cheese shop just outside San Miguel de Allende on the road to Queretaro. Why hadn’t I tried the wine? Well local wine isn’t exactly cheap and, at the price Remo’s was charging, I thought this couldn’t be good.
It was. Not great. Not even very good. But good. Especially when Marco revealed that Casa Nostra was charging $385 a bottle.
The taste reminded me of wine made using the Ripasso method where the grapes are dried after harvesting. And no, I’m not comparing Remo’s Vino Tinto to the quality of an Amarone, but it does have a similar full-bodied, boozy, raisiny taste. And it did go well with the chocolate mousse and the truffles that followed.
Casa Nostra has just added Remo’s Vino Tinto to their list, a list that Marco told me will change frequently.
“I am always trying to find new good wines at the best possible price,” he said, “and, whenever I am lucky enough to hit a bullseye, I will share the benefits of it with our guests. Therefore, the offering might change from time to time.”
“Keep those cheapies coming and I’ll keep coming,” I said to Marco Massarotti as we left Casa Nostra.
Casa Nostra is located at Terraplen #8 in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The restaurant is open from Wednesday to Saturday from 2:00 pm to 12:00 am and Sunday from 10:00 am to 2:00 pm.
I have been trying to get to this new restaurant. I love the wine report. How was the food?
You may have to wait for another blog post to hear about the food.
Excellent! Can’t go wrong!
We had a great comida there just before we left mid March after our usual two month winter residency. Loved the space and the food and the ambience and, yes, affordable wine lots list. Fab risotto!
I appreciate the comments on wine prices; they are exorbitant in some restaurants.
You don’t present your usual critique of the food. We tried Casa Nostra. The decor is wonderful from the gound floor to the open roof top. However, the food doesn’t quite make it. A more exciting and creative menu is needed.
Hi Steve
I have just read your comments on our food, I am Marco the owner.
I am sorry to hear that we did not quite make it food wise. we take every input very seriously and we are continuing to try to improve our offerings every day, whether wine or food. We have been opened for only some 6 weeks and we have started to incorporate taste preferences as well as suggestions from our clients. The menu has already changed this week and we will keep on changing it and strive to become better. Our future offering will focus much more on a few signature dishes and specialties from my Italian homeland with some additions for cold days from my second home country Switzerland.
I would love to hear more from you Steve how to improve our offerings so that your next visit will be fully satisfactory. Please do not hesitate to write me a mail with your suggestions at mfm@bluewin.ch
thanks
M.
Pruno – what a horrible name for a nice wine! You do know that pruno is what prisoners make out of anything that ferments, don’t you?
And this pertains to the wine, the restaurant, the subject, how?
The new gem in town. Good food, great ambiance, excellent service and fair pricing with tasty drinks = Happy Diners.
hola! I want to dine with you guys!!! 🙂 🙂 everything sounds delicious. Thanks for the post.
All my best,
Hi Priscila
we would love to have you at our place. Please do not hesitate to contact me under 442 747 08 60 (for local land line please put 044 in front of it)
saludos cordiales
marco
Dear DonDay, Glenn
Thank you very much for taking the time to come to our Restaurant and reviewing our wine offering. It was a pleasure having you, your wife and your friends. Fortunately I have encountered some more Pruno at a very reasonable price, so we should be capable to hold the price, at least for the time being.
ahi tiene su casa, saludos cordiales del equipo de Casa Nostra y Cristina y Marco
Casa Nostra has the potential to become a great restaurant in SMA; one where locals can feel very comfortable dining and also attracting tourists willing to go off the beaten path. We noticed it on the way down from El Manatial one night, went inside and Cristina gave us a gracious tour. A house renovated over the last couple of years, it is stunningly beautiful. A few days later, I walked by with our dog, met Marco who was equally friendly and made a reservation for friends and ourselves to have dinner. Unfortunately, I have to agree with Steve that the food didn’t measure up to the wonderful ambience. Also, the waiter was attempting to be pretentious. This was in startling contrast to the friendly and very unpretentious attitude of Marco and Cristina. All that said, Casa Nostra has caring, ever-present owners and a fabulous setting. We decided that they are just having start-up challenges and that we will be giving them another try very soon.
Dear Carlos
I would very much hear more about your food experience and what we can improve to get one step closer to what you would expect. it would also help us to understand more about what waiter was treating you that way, we are very sorry about that.
my mail is mfm@bluewin.ch
thank you for giving us another chance
saludos cordiales
Marco
I’m dying to try out this restaurant. Just one little suggestion. Bolognese meat sauce is never served with spaghetti in Italy. Egg noodles such as Tagliatelli or Fettucini are what is called for.
Dear Margaret
thank you very much for your suggestion, we can serve it with both, as we do every day freshly tagliatelle and spaghetti as we have started to offer pasta in its chees wheel of a 3 year aged Parmigiano Reggiano.
hope to see you soon
thank you
marco
Friends and I ate there this past week after hearing good things. The decor is astoundingly beautiful and intimate for a restaurant with the promise of Casa Nostra. The owners make the visit fun as well as informative and the servers could not wait to please. The bartender tried over and over to improve our Manhattans that were not even on the menu. Creativity in the menu, salmon ravioli with no noodles and served with hot stones!! may be getting in the way of the food! But we all enjoyed ours and the evening, even the stones!
Thank you very much Gail for your nice comments. I know it is a risk to put a riverbed on a plate with stones but I am very glad you handled it well and enjoyed the experience. Hope to see you soon again.
saludos cordiales
M.
Personal message to Don. Somehow you jumped on the bad grammar wagon. Many people use “to my wife and I” or “to my friend and I”, but those constructions ALWAYS take objective case. So it’s “to me”, not “to I”. You’d never think of saying “to we”, but rather “to us”. Same rule applies.
If you do post this, please post as GrammarLady.
To Grammar Lady,
If a minor grammar error is all you can find to comment on regarding a consistently informative and entertaining blog, you and yours have my sympathy. Apparently, the school of life has taught you very little.