It’s not easy being a musselholic in the middle of a desert. It’s not so much that the restaurants serving mussels come and go. It’s that mussels come and go on their menus. I just tallied up the number of San Miguel restaurants whose mussels I’ve praised in the nine...
When I met Ernesto Narvaez, the executive chef at Zibu Allende, one of the first things he said to me was, “This is not my restaurant. All of that credit goes to Eduardo Palazuelos. It is his concept. It is his menu. It is my job to continue what he created.” Zibu...
Is there anyone else out there old enough to remember Marlene Dietrich singing that song in Destry Rides Again? I was humming it to myself the other day when Don Day’s Wife and I were having lunch at Chikatana. I was thinking how tough it must be for Aleysha Serrato...
It had already become a tradition when I lived in London in the late seventies. “Fancy some Indian after the pub closes?” “Pick up some Indian on the way home, please, love.” “Why don’t I just run out and get some Indian; Spurs are on Match of the Day.” It was one of...
I must admit I didn’t like Consentido much at first. “It’s not really our kind of place”, said Don Day’s Wife. And she was right. It’s hard to get cozy and comfortable in somewhere the size of a barn. I’m not exactly big on monstrous TV screens staring down at me...
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