It was one of the most talked about Saturday nights in San Miguel ever. The Gypsy Kings were playing in our main square, in the jardin. The price was free. We figured we’d have to get down there at least three hours prior if we were to get anywhere near the stage. We remembered we didn’t do that anymore. We decided we weren’t going anywhere.

We’d park ourselves in front of the box, open a Costco cheapie, check out this new series on Prime called Cross; sit on our bums, eat on our laps. 

“So what do you want to eat?, said Don Day’s Wife.

“I’m thinking comfort food. Italian comfort food. Lasagna.”

“Too much work. Too much time.”

“OK, I’m thinking eggplant Parmesan.”

“No eggplant in the house.”

“OK, I’m thinking we order in.”

“But from where?”

I looked at the list I’d been making of new restaurants I must visit. There were three with mostly Italian menus. There were two that would deliver. And then I thought again. About a guy I hadn’t thought about for far too long.

One of my favorite chefs in San Miguel is Denver Reyes. No, let me change that. One of my favorite human beings in San Miguel is Denver Reyes.

Now Denver is not a lot like other San Miguel chefs. If I’m hanging out with other San Miguel chefs, we’re usually climbing on to bar stools. If I’m hanging with Denver, we’re usually climbing the Sierras.

Some of my favorite memories go back to the days when my grandkids were little kids and he’d rent burros to help us challenge the hills. He’d cut cactus paddles to cook our lunch in. He’d fill a table with an Italian feast when we came back down to earth.

Denver (real name Juan Manuel Reyes Patlan) is the chef/owner of Denver’s Los Olivos. Denver was born and raised on Mexican food in San Miguel de Allende. But Los Olivos is not a Mexican restaurant. Thanks to some priceless experience working for one of the world’s most successful ($4.5 billion in annual sales) restauranteurs, north of the border, Denver’s is one of those classic Italian/American restaurants serving classic Italian/American food at very affordable prices.

We pulled up the menu. Lasagna? Yes. Eggplant Parmesan? Yes and it included a pasta side. 

“We’ll need something to go with the fettuccine Alfredo (our choice of side).” I suggested. 

“We’ll have leftovers as it is,” replied Don Day’s Wife.

“But those meatballs. You know how we love those meatballs. You know how I think those are some of the best meatballs I’ve ever eaten in my life.”

My salesmanship worked. Three meatballs were added to the order.

“A bottle of white, a bottle of red. Perhaps a bottle of rosé instead.”

I was murdering a little Billy Joel as we waited for the order. Don Day’s Wife was comparing Detective Cross to Detective Luther. I opened a bottle of Concha y Toro Seleccion, our house red, currently a ridiculously low 90 pesos at Costco.

I’d asked for the order at 7:00. At 7:06, the doorbell rang. The bill was $570 including tip.

Everything was as expected. Good, old-fashioned, traditional, Italian/American cuisine. The meatballs were even better than remembered. This was the very definition of comfort food.

On Sunday, I watched a Gypsy Kings concert on You Tube from the comfort of my couch. I resisted the one meatball that was left over in the fridge. You never know when you’ll need a little comfort on a Monday.

Denver’s Los Olivos is located at 20 de Enero Sur #44 in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The restaurant is open on Tuesday through Saturday from Noon to 8:00 pm. For pick-up or delivery, call 415 150 0239 or Whatsapp 415 167 3911.