The first thing I must say is that I’m risking a hard elbow to one or more of my 24 when Don Day’s Wife reads this. You see, Don Day’s Wife makes some extraordinary pork ribs and this tale is about another chef and his just as…sorry, almost as…good ribs.

The restaurant where you’ll find them is Silveyra’s. It’s owned by Chef Ruben and his front-of-house wife Keli. They arrived in San Miguel de Allende along with their five…yes five…kids almost four years ago and are in their third…yes third…location already.

Ruben, from Veracruz, Mexico, met Keli in Kansas City and “…he knew he would have to learn how to make good BBQ for me”, Keli kiddingly said to me. 

The greatest expression of BBQ, Kansas City style, for me, is ribs and, a couple of weeks ago, I had Ruben Silveyra’s for the first time. It will not be the last time.

The back ribs had a richer, more robust, fattier flavor and a meatiness that I associated more with short ribs from the chest. The spiciness was light and there was just a hint of smoke so the pork flavor was always front and center. I just loved them.

Over at another table, I saw that fellow foodie Jack Jacobs also had put back a rack. I decided to get a second opinion.

“Fall off the bone. So tender I ate the whole half rack with a fork,” said Jack.

The serving at Silveyra’s was huge. As wonderful as it was, I couldn’t finish it. I shared some with my friend, Chris Anger. Her smile said everything.

Dan Brill, aka El Brillo, aka the guy who makes San Miguel’s best bagels, was at another table. I also wanted his opinion so I walked over and asked him who he thought made the best ribs in town. I should have expected (Dan’s known for his sarcastic wit) his reply.

“Why me, of course, no one could make a better rack.”

We talked about the ribs at a couple of other restaurants in San Miguel then I went back to my table, sliced off one of the bones and carefully carried it to Dan. 

“Let me know what you think”, I said.

Dan told me, in his very eloquent fashion, “The single sauce-smothered rib that you so lovingly slid onto my plate was delicious—I might even say toothsome. The second that succulent costilla fell off the bone and melted into my mouth, I was paralyzed with ribliss (a word I had to invent). I would wrestle the pig to the ground for a whole serving of those ribs (just don’t tell my rabbi I said that).”

Silveyra’s ribs come with a big smear of Ruben’s homemade BBQ sauce. Dan thought it was “kind of meh, a bit too vinegary”. I liked it but found it a bit overpowering. Next time (which will be soon), I’ll order my ribs SOS. Next time, I might even suggest to Don Day’s Wife that we share an order. Their half racks really are that big. And that good.

Silveyra’s is located at Salida a Celaya #47 in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The restaurant is open Monday to Wednesday, from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm; Thursday through Sunday, from 9:00 am to 8:30 pm. For delivery, call 415 167 4353.