So there I was, walking down Hernandez Macias, on my way to Kenny’s for some Buffalo wings and one of his fully-loaded caesars and in the distance I see a sheep. Could it be, I thought, could it really be?

I’ve been lamenting a lot lately, desperately missing El Pato, the barbacoa joint down near the bus station that finally gave up the ghost and moved their business to Queretaro. I’d been having to traipse out to Colonia Ignacio Ramirez or up to La Luz to get my lamb fix. Could this be an undiscovered barbacoa spot.

A few strides later I could read the words. El Borrego Feliz. What could make a sheep happier, I thought, than fulfilling my longing for lamb. There also, was another word, in bold, black letters, the word barbacoa.

As I crossed Calzado de la Luz, I caught the smell of tortillas grilling. I leaned my head in and, there to my right, was a fat aluminum pot with the aroma of juicy, falling-apart lamb rising from it.

I decided to do just one taco. That wouldn’t spoil my lunch.

The tortilla was blue corn. The serving was generous. The lamb was juicy, tender and spiced mildly but perfectly.

I started chatting to a woman named Kathy at another table. She told me that she ate there multiple times a week. She told me Gabriel and Rosa, the couple that owned El Borrego Feliz were “absolutely wonderful”. She said that everything on the menu was “a delight”.

I was contemplating a second taco then had a better idea, an idea that would still leave room for my upcoming chicken wing lunch. I’d order up a medio kilo para llevar, a half kilo to go. Don Day’s Wife was heading to City Market. I’d suggest that she pick up some of their puff pastry. I’d ask her to make a lamb pie for dinner.

Off I danced with my double-wrapped treasure in the yellow plastic bag.

That evening, Don Day’s Wife placed El Borrego Feliz’s barbacoa in a cazuela and then added a gravy that she’d cooked up with peas and carrots.

She rolled out the pasta de hojaldre and pinched it around the bowl.

30 minutes later I had a plateful of heaven.

Now why you might be asking would you buy pre-cooked and pre-seasoned lamb instead of starting from scratch. Well, you could say it’s because we’re particular. We want lamb that’s fresh, that’s local, that’s young and, unfortunately, that is impossible to buy at any San Miguel de Allende carniceria or supermercado. I’ve never quite known the reason why, something about the cost of slaughtering, but it’s been that way for the two decades I’ve been living half of my life in this country.

So we compromise. Except for the occasional New Zealand rack, Don Day’s Wife uses barbacoa in her lamb recipes.

Cut now to last Friday night when we were invited to our good friends Andy and Marie Claude’s for an Olde English feast. My large and sensitive nose could smell lamb coming from the oven.

“It’s the classic. It’s shepherd’s pie”, said Andy.

My plate arrived at the table and I took a big mouthful of the mashed potatoes, then a bigger mouthful of the lamb. 

“Yes, I used barbacoa. We’ve discovered this new place. Nice couple”, said Andy. “It’s walking distance from here.”

El Borrego Feliz is located at Calzada de la Luz 53, in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. They’re open on Mondays and from Wednesday to Saturday from 9:00 to 3:00; on Sundays from 8:30 to 3:00. For delivery, call 415 192 5992.