I had no one to blame but myself.
Oh sure, I could blame that mean and nasty Covid. But Covid hadn’t really been that nasty to me for over a year.
I guess it was what’s been plaguing mankind since creation. That wanting to taste the latest instead of sticking to the greatest. That’s the only reason I could give for tromping from disappointment to disaster instead of trusting the tried and true restaurants.
I could see the celebrated chef in the back room when I walked through the front door of ol’ faithful. I knew the chef could see me. Was he going to walk out and shake my hand or give me one of those Mexican man hugs that I still do clumsily (is it two back pats or one)? Perhaps he was just going to stare and glare.
We met midway. He held out his hand. I took it, put it around my shoulder and put my other arm around him.
“I think it’s been almost two years”, I said.
“No”, he said, “it’s been almost three”.
He was right.
The chef was Antonio Arrieta. The restaurant was Firenze. He’s the man and it’s the venue San Miguel de Allende has cherished for over a decade. Oh so many years yet, somehow, I had almost forgotten it.
Back in 2014, I launched The SMART Awards, a little recognition program to honor San Miguel’s favorite restaurants. The voting was done by readers of this weblog and, at its peak, over 600 subscribers voted.
In the first year, the still happening and still respected La Posadita was the winner. In the second, Firenze made its initial big impact, coming first in the voting. In 2016, Chef Antonio’s restaurant narrowly fell to second behind the gone but not forgotten Aguamiel. Then, in the year 2017, Firenze rose again to the top and stayed on top for each and every one of the next three years. Quite an accomplishment even the most jealous toque wearers would say.
And then what happened? Well Covid happened. Restaurants closed their doors. They were almost commanded to lock their doors. I cancelled the celebratory SMARTs dinner in 2021 and I’ve been postponing The SMART Awards ever since.
“It was tough,” said Antonio. “We struggled. Some days we didn’t know if anyone was going to walk through the door…thank goodness for the regulars. It’s still a struggle but it’s getting better, better all the time. I’m smiling a little more now.”
I started with the bruschetta. I like bruschetta. I’ve missed bruschetta. It’s disappeared even from many of the very traditional trattoria’s menus. But it’s still there on Firenze’s.
It’s not a difficult dish to do. It’s mostly about choosing the right tomatoes. You don’t need heritage heirlooms. Romas will do. As long as they’re ripe and sweet. Firenze’s, of course, were.
Don Day’s Wife went for another classic as her starter. I could have easily guessed what it would be. And my encouragement came from knowing that, with its usual size, I’d be able to steal a healthy chunk. San Miguel de Allende is blessed to have Remo’s, a local world-class cheesemaker and Chef Antonio doesn’t just side their buttery burrato with the usual tomatoes, olive oil and balsamic reduction, he circles it with a well-aged prosciutto. The word decadent comes to mind.
The restaurant’s wine choices still come in a box rather than on a menu. A little gimmicky I always thought. But gimmicks are used because gimmicks work. I chose the same red I’ve chosen for years at Firenze. A fresh, young Sangiovese called Morrelino de Scansano. It’s a bargain compared to other Tuscan reds.
I knew what my main would be the moment we decided to go to Firenze. I’d never conducted a poll to discover San Miguel’s favorite restaurant dish but based on the comments and emails and messages over the years, I’d have given five to one on the probable winner.
You’ll get arguments about the best tasting part of a cow. And I’ve heard convincing arguments for the cheeks, the shanks and the tail. But for me, it’s the short rib and I really don’t know anyone who does it any more tender, any more tasty than Antonio Arrieta.
I’m not sure what’s in the sauce; Don Day’s Wife thinks it might be tamarind. I like how it doesn’t fight with the taste of the beef, it simply kisses it. I like the starch a lot as well; every time I’ve tasted Firenze’s, I think why doesn’t the world eat more sweet potatoes? Why don’t I?
It was our first time out to dinner with Jack Petrie, a friend from the old hood that I hadn’t seen in 54 years. Jack and his wife Brannan were first-timers at Firenze and I got to play guiding light. After the short rib, there is one other legendary dish.
It’s simply called Pesce del Giorno with a “market price” tag on the menu. In Firenze’s early years dorado was the choice of fish but in recent years the much better robalo took its place. It’s mostly a Caribbean fish and, with most of central Mexico’s pescaderos peddling Pacific stock, it’s not an easy find but, as usual, the robalo was there in Firenze’s kitchen and, with a little nudging from Don Day’s Wife, both Brannan and Jack made it their choice of main.
Why I’ll always choose robalo over dorado or huachinango is the firmness and flakiness of the flesh. The taste is quite light; it needs a sauce; and, as always, if the restaurant isn’t too busy, chef Antonio emerges from the kitchen with the jug and pours. What are the ingredients in the sauce? Again I’m not sure. White wine, lemon, garlic, perhaps capers, maybe olives. Whatever’s in it works. Wonderfully.
About the only complaint I’ve ever heard about Firenze is the “same old, same old” content of the menu. No, it hasn’t been refreshed too often over the last decade but I consider that a compliment not a complaint. Antonio Arrieta follows the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” rule. I like that. And there’ll be another fifteen or so appies and mains that I haven’t had for years the next time I go. Which I’ve promised myself will be soon.
We were stuffed. But there was still one legendary Firenze dish I had to squeeze into my agenda and my stomach. Another Italian classic. A pannacotta. A perfect pannacotta. Decorated with passion fruit. And washed down with limoncello.
I started thinking about it again. What took you so long, Don Day? What took you so damn long to get back to Firenze?
Firenze is located at Callo Recreo #13 in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico. The restaurant is open from 5:30 to 9:30 pm, Monday to Saturday. Call +52 415 121 0763 for reservations.
We have owned a place here since 2016, lived here full time since 2018. Soon to have another place in CDMX, Roma Norte. My husband a foodie and very good cook and I( nit a cook) both think the 2 best restaurants in SMA are Firenze and The Restaurant, for the excellence of the food and the consistency. We don’t go in for the gimmicks, floor managers with headsets etc. As you noted in your article the Chef at Firenze watches you come in the door and its as if he is cooking the meal with you in mind. That is very special.
Will they take reservations vía WhatsApp. I’ve always been fortunate to just walk in.
Last week they were out of short ribs….I ordered the pork chop instead. A revelation! Perfectly pink! A double pork chop. Too big for this 75 year old human to eat, and our dear departed Bella no longer here to finish it off and chew on the bones.
Always my and Woody’s favorite, and you hit the nail on the head 🙂 During Covid, we had them deliver twice a month to continue supporting them (and to help keep us in the groove, too 🙂 The food they delivered was always just as good as dining in the restaurant, delivered by Jorge on his bike. Lovely people and the best, most consistent restaurant in town!
Firenze so great, wish he was here in Ottawa. First night, new years many moons on Celeya, had brought a bottle veuve Cliquot and two bottles of red wine. When later asked to go across the street to get more wine, so insulted, went to the kitchen and told Antonio that the champagne was for him and his staff
Let’s schedule a dinner together there!! Gregs favorite restaurant 🥰
During Covid we had Firenze deliver once or twice a week. We live so close that the waiter appeared with the napkin draped over his arm. The sea bass went down my gullet.
The night you brought in your large table, I was there with travel/food writer. The restaurant filled and I knew someone at every table. Very comfy. I’m glad we arrived early so chef could point out his own paintings. He’s talented with a brush as well as a spatula.
Tonio knows his ingredients and preparation, we had a lovely dinner with some Italian friends and our Italian wine provider, it was delicious, accurate and reliable like a Swiss watch
During COVID, Antonio was my Friday night date. I don’t know how he did it but every meal arrived as if it had just come from the stove. Did not make any difference if it was fish or tenderloin. Perfectly cooked. Always delicious.
So many thanks for writing this !! During Covid Firenze delivered to me once, but then road construction made it impossible.. especially now that I am not longer in Centro but moved to Frailes 🙁
So I have missed them terribly, and with your ‘push’ will go back and soon!
I can still remember his early days on Celaya!
“I can still remember his early days on Celaya!”
Me too, Therese, when you entered through the kitchen surreptiously carrying your BYO wine in a colourful bolsa, climbed a narrow flight of stairs, and entered a tiny space with four or five tables. You then feasted on the best dinner to be had at that time in SMA, with the beverage of your choice: ‘tea’ (white wine) or ‘coffee’ (red wine) served in tea cups.
I discovered Firenze on one of my trips about 3 years ago, and it is my very favorite restaurant in SMA! And, as I often travel alone, I can say that it is a place where you can dine alone and not feel out of place at all. Your review makes me want to look at airfares right now 🙂
I think we were his second clients, taken there (on Salida a Celaya) by his first clients – our dear friends. They had been there (and I believe were the only clients) on opening night then took us there on the following night. There was no wine license and we drank our BYOB wine from coffee mugs to hide it from the authorities but the food brought us back frequently. Our daughter had her rehearsal dinner there and we got ‘complaints’ from Friday regulars that we closed the restaurant that night. Since the beginning, we’ve sent every tourist we’ve met to Firenze (some probably didn’t go – their loss). We’ve never met a finer man nor a better chef.
When will you bring back the SMART awards? I guess you know which restaurant will get our vote…
Hey Glenn. Antonio is always the man! Back about 2014 or so? My wife and I dined at Firenze on your recommendation. It will always be the Greatest Spot in out town. The shanks are ridiculously good….and I usually don’t like sweet potatoes! My wife has been a bit sick for a few years but her goal is to get rocking and return to Firenze. Mike Duncan
I discovered Firenze back when it was on Ancha/Salida. I followed them to their place across from the iglesia de Saint Antonio . And finally to Recreo. They were at the top of my “not to miss “ list of restaurants when I had my Airbnb for 10 years. When my daughter decided to have her wedding here, Firenze was the top suggestion for where her guests should eat. ALWAYS a winner. I moved outside of town a couple years ago and have missed eating there. I have recently moved back into town and will be frequenting Firenze once again!
We were the lucky table mates of Glenn and Sharon’s at Firenze on this particular evening. Yes the food and ambience were outstanding as was the gentle guidance of our dining accomplices, I keep dreaming of our fish dish and must return for another stab or twenty. It eats delicately and like a good book, you don’t want it to finish. The obvious affection tween Glenn and Antonio is apparent. And the wine selection in a box? I liked it and have never seen it done before. Must try it back home in Victoria just for the playful ceremony of it.